Fabbrica Chimica Unione: shoe care expertise since 1923

Founded in Milan in 1923, Fabbrica Chimica Unione has built its experience around products for the care, treatment and colouring of leather and footwear. Its history links formulation knowledge with the practical demands of specialist customers.
Over the decades, FCU has developed private label work and industrial partnerships alongside its own brands. Today, it helps brands, distributors and professional buyers define suitable shoe care ranges.
The offer combines products manufactured internally with complementary articles sourced through partners. Manufacturing origin, packaging and supply conditions are assessed for each reference and project.
FCU / 1923–2026
A century of shoe care expertise
Founded in Milan
Fabbrica Chimica Unione is founded in Milan by a small group of entrepreneurs. Its first products care for leather and footwear, supplying specialist shops and shoe factories.
The first trademarks
Reflex and Uni are registered for the first time, beginning a lasting connection with the company and its products.
Production moves to Nova Milanese
During the Second World War, bombing also affects the Milan premises. The factory moves to Nova Milanese, while the offices and registered headquarters remain in Milan.
Opening up to Europe
FCU receives Chamber of Commerce approval for foreign trade and begins expanding into the European market.
Reflex, ERI and international markets
Cooperation with German company ERI supports product development for more than fifty years. Italian distribution of Reflex and Nero Fenomenale, later Nero d’Inferno, grows in the 1960s and 1970s. Meetings in Paris and the 1970 Stuttgart fair strengthen international relationships.
Formulation expertise and independence
In the early 1970s FCU becomes independent of the ERI group and acquires the German formulations, continuing to expand its range and markets.
Grasso Foca and insole comfort
The 1980s bring registration of Grasso Foca and a new Nero d’Inferno formulation without aniline. FCU becomes a limited liability company and moves its offices to Nova Milanese. A department for insoles and footbeds opens late in the decade.
Nero d’Inferno joins FCU
Nero d’Inferno, established in 1903 and originally owned by Pietro Rossi, is transferred to Fabbrica Chimica Unione. Its dye-making heritage becomes part of the company’s history.
New retail manufacturing partnerships
FCU develops manufacturing for companies serving large retail networks under their own brands. Reflex stays close to specialist shops, while the company’s brands reach more foreign markets.
A new home in Desio
Offices, factory, insole production and warehouse move to the industrial area of Desio. Raw materials continue to be stored at the historic Nova Milanese premises.
Nero d’Inferno meets art
The traditional leather and footwear dye finds new uses in graffiti, with writers and artists taking it beyond its original purpose.
FCU Shoe Care: private label worldwide
From 2021 FCU Shoe Care grows internationally in private label manufacturing. Italian production expertise meets each customer’s brand identity, with formulations, sizes and presentation developed for different markets.
A century in business
One hundred years since the foundation: a milestone celebrating the company’s heritage, its products and its people. That tradition continues to inspire the next chapter.
Historic trademark recognition
On 30 July 2024, UIBM accepts the application for Reflex and authorises its entry in the special register of historic trademarks, recognising the continuity of its registrations over the years.
A renewed identity, an enduring signature
The 2026 rebranding renews the presentation of Reflex and FCU Shoe Care. Reflex celebrates its heritage and specialist retail range; FCU Shoe Care focuses on private label manufacturing. Two distinct identities share Fabbrica Chimica Unione’s experience.


